Saturday, May 29, 2010

Qaru Lambo - Looking at the world through new eyes

Friday May 28, 2010

This is the day that changed us forever. It started rainy and chilly. We packed up for the trip to Qaru Lambo - the first school where we funded a rainwater harvesting project. They were expecting us. The roads here are mud, not gravel. The rain had made them very slick, which, when added to the humungous and plentiful potholes (some 18 inches deep) made for a bone-jarring, teeth-rattling ride.

The landscape is gorgeous - tons of wild flowers in rolling green hills with Ngorogoro highlands in the background.

We reach Qaru Lambo at about 10:30. Very hard to describe this day. We first met the head teacher, who had us all crowd in to her teeny tiny office to sign the guest book. We were thanked and welcomed profusely in Swahili with Japhet translating for both sides. We then toured each classroom, The students were shy at first, but quickly warmed up and let their curiousity about the mizungas take over. They were eager to have their picture taken and see themselves in the back of the camera - a game that could go on forever. They were so polite, willing to shake hands and soon even got the hang of the "fist-bump" that our students taught them. The QL students were absolutely adorable and heart-wrenching - beautiful children with huge eyes and big smiles all wearing the school uniform of red sweater and long blue skirt (girls) or short pants (boys). Some sweaters were so tattered you could tell how often they had been handed down.

The classrooms were essentially concrete cells with open windows and a blackboard. Wooden benches that sat 3 students (tightly), no supplies, no teachers desks, no books. 12 teachers for approximately 700 students (no, Peter, this is NOT a way to fix the schedule!).

In the older classes, students would stand and recite a greeting in unison. KEC students were having the time of their lives - you could see how awed they were by the experience. The QL students had never seen this many white people - especially young ones like themselves and they were enormously curious and quite enchanted.

Seeing the 2 drinking stations shining proudly in front of the school yard was very emotional. Many times, students would go up and get a drink. There were new gardens carefully tended that were irrigated with water from the tanks and the handwashing stations.

We toured the girls pit latrine, and many tried it out - a bit difficult to believe that it is an improvement over what the had before!

The rainwater harvesting tanks themselves were carefully managed by the school's water management committee and lovingly surrounded by a fence of small seedling trees.
We were the guests of honour at a feast provided by the entire community. It was an exciting moment for us when we all washed our hands in the hand-washing station that we funded!Providing this meal was a great sacrifice for this incredibly impoverished community. The students were great at expressing their appreciation - getting very excited and making "mmm" noises as each dish was revealed. Potatoes, goat, chicken, cabbage salad, fried green bananas, oranges, and fresh bananas. One of the classrooms had been transformed into a party room for the feast. After we took our food, the important people from the village also joined us.


Following the meal, the ceremonies began. Slowly over the morning, people from the village and community had been arriving - all decked out in their very best. One of the teachers acted as MC - again with Japhet translating for us. First the school children danced and sang for us (girls are the drummers here). After a few numbers, they invited our students up to dance with them - they all eagerly participated! Then our children demonstrated their expertise at singing and dancing with a rousing rendition of the "Hokey Pokey" followed by the "Chicken Dance". Then adults from the village performed for us. It was very humbling to be treated with such gratitude and appreciation for what we feel was an act of basic human kindness.

We were then all presented with gifts from the community - lengths of cloth wrapped around myself, Jan, and Peter, and sandals handmade from tires for Susan and the students. We presented them with the gift of the sports equipment we had brought for the school - we could hardly hold the crowd of children back as they crowded in to see what was being brought out!

Following this dignified and formal part of the day, there was a soccer match between the KEC students and Qaru Lambo. Everyone eagerly lined the field as our students took their places on the field and looked around to see where their oponents were. They had a disconcerting moment as out from the school jogs the Qaru Lambo soccer team - in matching uniforms and looking very professional! Peter, I'm sad to say, tried to switch his allegiance to the opponent's team! However, with Erin helping out in goal, and Tony on the field, and even Pete joining the fray, we proudly represented Canada! The onlookers all cheered loudly when Mary managed to steal the ball from a QL player. Daniel scored an amazing goal - impressing all with his speed and agility. Mostly, they were surprised to see women playing soccer for the first time ever!

After the game mercifully ended (3 - 1), everyone dispersed and mingled with the children and the community members. Some of our girls played soccer with the QL girls - first time ever! That really rocked things! Devin and Matt played volleyball (they called it netball), some of the girls played a basketball-like game (also called netball) and others just played with the kids. Our hair was stroked and our skin touched. They pacticed their English (so much better than our Swahili) and generally enjoyed the day. Even the adults liked to have their picture taken and see themselves on our digital cameras.

We left - tired and euphoric - completely overwhelmed with so many mixed emotions. We will return next Wednesday to plant fruit trees for the school.


We had a fun-filled evening at a local establishment called "Happy Days". Great music, good food - we all want to go back!

Friday, May 28, 2010

First full day in Africa



Thursday May 27, 2010 - It seems like we've been here forever, but in reality, it's been less than one day. Woke up way too early (body clocks are still trying to adjust to the 8 hour time difference) to various birds, bells, roosters and other assorted unfamiliar sounds. Breakfast was great - eggs taste wonderful. Then hiked down the road a short distance (we'll never complain about Winnipeg potholes again) to the CPAR office. Had a chance for a few people to catch up on emails. Jean led us through an introduction session to meet the staff (Dayo, Ndiringo, Mohammed, "Nice", Jean and Japhet) and get to know us a bit better. We then all gave our first impressions of Africa. Highlights were:



Joe - beautiful landscape

Cheryl - wide open spaces

Erin - friendly people




Delainie - all the kids

Nitasha - kids - how happy they appear and their impressive command of English

Mary - beautiful plants, and how good it feels to be here




Megan - how at home it feels to be here

Alyssa - open, friendly people

Bronwyn - how lush and green and full of life everything is

Riley - friendly people

Preet - how nature is incorporated into everything that is built, instead of tearing it down and building over it

Peter - gender disparity - women seem to be working very much harder than the men

Kayla - how welcoming and happy all the people are

Carah - the people make you feel special - very polite

Karen G - how hard everyone works

Dan - how conservative everyone is with resources - nothing is wasted and everything is valued

Janice - cleanliness, the vegetation, and the happiness of the people

Devin - love the people

Alanna - how welcoming it is here

Susan - the smiles everywhere

Darcy - surprised at how hard small kids work

Jeremy - how friendly the people are and how proud they are of the land and how willing they are to tell you about it

Matthew - how great CPAR has been to us and what a great job they have done organizing everything for us

Karen S - the beautiful country

Morgan - how much the accomodations exceeded our expectations, the baboons on the roadside

Vannessa - the young women working so hard

Jessica - no one is homesick because we feel so much at home here

Larry - beautiful land, nice people


Kathy - vast landscapes and warmth of people


Jean summed it up nicely - this area is the "cradle of the world", the birthplace of mankind, which is one of the reasons why so many people feel like they are coming home when they visit here.


Broke for an Internet break - all of us lining up to get on the 5 available computers and exerienced our first "boxed lunch" which actually came in boxes! REALLY full boxes! There was enough food for 2 people in each box (except for some of the boys and Alanna) - an egg salad bunwich, cheese and crackers, a vegetable quiche, carrot sticks, a juice box (well, actually a pyramid), chocolate bar, and a chicken drumstick.

Japhet then gave us a quick lesson on the political history of Tanzania so we'd have some insight into some of the issues surrounding education and healthcare. The first 7 years of school are free (except parents have to provide uniforms, and in some cases water and other supplies), secondary school is next - only 20% continue on to this level. Of those 20%, only 3% go to university (0.03% of population). Education is the key to get out of poverty.

Healthcare varies greatly by region and is not free.




CPAR has been working directly with communities to help them address problems. The community is already on the path to trying to find a solution, CPAR provides some extra resources to help them achieve their solution.


They have 86 schools requesting rainwater harvesting tanks since 2004, 25 have been built - this includes the two from KEC. We were the only source of funding this year as all of their other sponsors have had to cut back due to the recession.


We then went for a walk down to the main business area so we could exchange money into shillings. We felt a little like fresh chum in the water surrounded by the shark-like hawkers with their trinkets and carvings - each promising the best deal! A little intimidating. We split into groups and went off on different adventures. Most of the students finally caved to the street vendors and bought necklaces or bracelets. A few girls bought material for kangas and dropped it off to be sewn. Peter, with Jean's help, arranged to buy a small boy a pair of shoes for 3000 shillings (about 3 bucks) who followed us around with his bare feet and his big eyes. They ran off with the money and a while later came racing back to proudly display his second-hand shoes! I'm not sure who was more pleased with the transaction - Peter or his new friend.

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Travel, travel, and more travel

Monday May 24, 2010 6:50 pm - We left Winnipeg amidst big family hugs, tears, and some excitement and relief to finally be on the way. Students all let out a huge cheer as the plane left the ground. We were welcomed in Toronto with several fireworks displays all over the city (or possibly people were celebrating Victoria Day instead of our arrival, not quite sure). Mad dash through Toronto airport and got everyone on board for the next leg. Teachers have divided the students into groups to make it easier to account for everyone as we travel across the world - method seems to work great. As we leave for London, students are already starting to record in their new journals - good start.


Tuesday May 25, 2010 4:50 am (Winnipeg time), 10:50 am (London time)


Virtually impossible to sleep on an airplane, although some managed. Helpful to know that the headrests actually adjust - someone could have shared that tidbit with me long ago. Most managed at least a few catnaps and everyone is revved up for our London tour - students more so than the teachers! Surely at least one of the four teachers would be a "morning person" - apparently not!



Made it through the customs hurdle and waited for our tour. A few delays had some of our initial enthusiasm fade, but eventually got underway with the help of John, our Prince look-alike tour guide. Great lunch provided on the bus as we headed into London. Beautiful sunny day and a stop at Hyde Park made the wait worthwhile. Gorgeous scenery, amazing architecture, and knowledgeable information from almost-a-barrister John made it a thouroughly enjoyable afternoon. Saw all the "royal" highlights before heading back to Heathrow - seems much easier to sleep on the tour bus than on the airplane!





Back at Heathrow, we connect with the members of our group that left before us - and now we are at the full 29. We board the Kenya Airways for the seemingly endless journey to Nairobi. After what seems like days, we spy a brilliant African sunrise. This quickly disappears as we sink into the thick, grey cloud cover. Take a trolley bus to the terminal from the plane - somehow only I managed to get on with all students while the other 3 teachers waited for the next one. Meet up again in the airport and begin to search for our luggage and tickets to get on the final leg of our journey. A fair amount of confusion ensues which necessitates much walking back and forth (en masse) as we try to find out which gate we should be at. Also trying to track down our elusive luggage. Engarnered a few strange looks as this large crowd of crazy mizungas go one way then the other down this narrow corridor several times. Get on a very tiny plane with what we think is all our luggage and have the final hop into Kilimanjaro. First view of the mountain was indescribable - makes the whole trip worth it!



Wednesday May 26, 2010 9:00 a.m. Tanzania time (1:00 a.m. Winnipeg time)


Disembark at the tiny, gorgeous Kilimanjaro airport. Fill out somewhat complicated customes forms and have our yellow fever certificates examined. As we collect our luggage, it becomes apparent that there is nothing for Amanpreet to collect - most distressing. While we are trying to sort that out, a couple of officials attempt to impose a somewhat randomly thought out "sports" tax on our arrival since we were bringing in equipment for the schools. I left them holding my passport while I went and appealed to Japhet for assistance. During the flurry of Swahili that followed, it was decided that "this time only" they would let me through without paying the "tax."






We all pile into a bunch of jeeps to begin the trek to Karatu. The drive was made a little longer by a stop at Arusha's Impala Hotel (where we will be spending one night near the end of our trip) for some reason understood only by our drivers.



The landscape was amazing - so vast and lush! Between naps (still VERY tired), we spied a couple of giraffes (not too close - we'll do better), zebras (a bit closer), and some baboons (REAL close)!





Also stopped at Lake Manyara for a break and to take in the view of the Rift valley. Saw lots of Masai people en route - women often carrying huge loads on their heads and working very hard and, the men - not so much.



The rooms at the hostel exceeded our expectations - spacious rooms with private bathrooms. Meals have been oustanding! Apparently accomodations at the Crater Rim View are equally fine.




Jean wouldn't let us rest in the afternoon - insisted we needed to keep active and sleep that night to comba the jet lag. She took us on a one hour hike through the town. We were made to feel most welcome by friendly people who were very quick to smile as we called out "mambo!". Lots of children eager to have their pictures taken by the visitors.




We were all crashing over supper - trying not to face-plant in our soup. Sent everyone to bed early and all was quiet - for a while. Most teachers wisely went to sleep immediately, while some kids seemed to get their second wind. After about 1/2 hour of listening to what sounded like an episode of Fawlty Towers (opening and slamming doors, running feet, whispering and muffled giggles) I went out and threw everyone back in assigned rooms and took care of a few mosquito net repairs so everyone could sleep.














Friday, May 21, 2010

Finally...the trip begins (almost)

After four intense years of planning, our Tanzania 2010 journey ends with the beginning of another journey - the actual trip to Karatu, Tanzania! The fundraising is done, the decisions, planning, and preparations all complete. We've accomplished our goal of helping two schools build rainwater harvesting tanks and now on to the next phase - visit the schools and witness firsthand the results of our efforts.

We've all got our passports, our shots (yes, my arm did hurt for a week), and our visas. Excitement is running high as the 18 students, 4 teachers, and 7 family members in our group spend this long weekend packing and running last minute errands before we depart for Karatu via Toronto, London, Nairobi, and Kilimanjaro.

Only 3 more sleeps (I'm sure the students could tell me the exact number of hours...)